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LITTER BOXES vs. ANYWHERE BUT THE BOX
Much like certain people and unlike most dogs, cats tend to preferences
for where, and on what, they like to eliminate. Cats generally prefer a
loose, sandy substance, which is why they will use a litter box. When their
preferences include the laundry basket, the bed or the Persian rug, their
elimination behavior becomes a problem. Often, however, with careful
analysis of your cat’s environment, specific factors that have contributed
to the litter box problem can usually be identified and changed, so that
your cat will again use the litter box for elimination.
Some common reasons why cats don’t use the litter box are:
an aversion to the box, a preference for a particular surface
not provided by the box, a preference for a particular location
where there is no box, or a combination of all three. You’ll need
to do some detective work to determine the reason your cat is
house soiling. Sometimes, the reason the litter box problem
initially started may not be the same reason it’s continuing.
For example, your cat may have stopped using the litter box
because of a urinary tract infection, and has now developed
a surface preference for carpet and a location preference for
the bedroom closet. You would need to address all three of
these factors in order to resolve the problem.
Cats don’t stop using their litter boxes because they’re mad or
upset and trying to get revenge for something that “offended”
or “angered” them. Humans act for these reasons so it’s easy
for us to assume that our pets do as well. Since animals don’t
act out of spite or revenge, it will absolutely not help to give
your cat special privileges in the hope that she’ll start using
the litter box again.
Medical Problems
It’s common for cats to begin eliminating outside of their
litter box when they have a medical problem. For example,
a urinary tract infection or crystals in the urine can make
urination very painful. Cats often associate this pain with
the litter box and begin to avoid it. If your cat has a house soiling
problem, check with your veterinarian first to rule out
any medical problems for the behavior. Cats don’t always act
sick, even when they are, and only a trip to the veterinarian
for a thorough physical examination can rule out a medical
problem.
Cleaning Soiled Areas
Because animals are highly motivated to continue soiling an
area that smells like urine or feces, it’s imperative that you
thoroughly clean the soiled areas. Cat urine is at the top of
the list of odors that are almost impossible to get out. You
may even need to have soiled carpet and the pad underneath
removed entirely.
Aversion to the Litter Box
Your cat may have decided that the litter box is an unpleasant
place to eliminate if:
- The box is not clean enough for her.
- She has experienced painful urination or defecation
in the box due to a medical problem.
- She has been startled by a noise while using the box.
- She has been "ambushed" while
in the box either by another cat, a
child, a dog or by you, if you were
attempting to catch her for some
reason.
- She associates the box with
punishment (someone punished
her for eliminating outside the
box, then placed her in the box).
What You Can Do
- Keep the litter box extremely
clean. Scoop at least once a day
and change the litter completely
every four to five days. If you use
scoopable litter, you may not need
to change the litter as frequently.
This will vary according to how
many cats are in the household,
how many litter boxes you have
and how large the cats are that are
using the box or boxes.
A good guideline is that if you can smell
the box, then you can be sure it's
offensive to your cat as well.
- A good rule of thumb if you have
multiple cats is to have one box more
than the number of cats. That means
if you have three cats, you should
have 4 boxes.
- Add a new box in a different location
than the old one and use a different
type of litter in the new box. (Our
vet suggested buying a brand new
box so there would be absolutely
no evidence of other cats and to try
a brand of litter called Cat Attract
& it worked!!!) Because your cat
has decided that her old litter box is
unpleasant, you'll want to make the
new one different enough that she
doesn't simply apply the old, negative
associations to the new box.
- Make sure that the litter box isn't
near an appliance that makes noise
or in an area of the house that your
cat doesn't frequent.
- If ambushing is a problem, try to
create more than one exit from the
litter box, so that if the "ambusher" is
waiting by one area, your cat always
has an escape route. It may even
be preferable to keep the offending
cat in a limited area of the house (a
bathroom or laundry room) so they
won’t be agitated and will have limit
choices as far as where to eliminate.
Surface Preferences
All animals develop preferences for a particular
surface on which they like to eliminate. These
preferences may be established early in
life, but they may also change overnight for
reasons that we don’t always understand.
Your cat may have a surface preference if: She
consistently eliminates on a particular texture.
For example, soft-textured surfaces, such as
carpet, bedding or clothing, or slick-textured
surfaces, such as tile, cement, bathtubs or sinks.
She frequently scratches on this same texture
after elimination, even if she eliminates in the
litter box. She is or was previously an outdoor
cat and prefers to eliminate on grass or soil.
What You Can Do
- If your cat is eliminating on soft
surfaces, try using a high-quality,
scoopable litter and put a soft rug
under the litter box.
- If your cat is eliminating on slick,
smooth surfaces, try putting just a
very thin layer of litter at one end of
the box, leaving the other end bare,
and put the box on a hard floor.
- If your cat has a history of being
outdoors, add some soil or sod to the
litter box.
- Make the area where she has been
eliminating aversive to her by
covering it with an upside-down
carpet runner or aluminum foil, or
by placing citrus-scented cotton balls
over the area.
Location Preferences
Your cat may have a location preference if:
- She always eliminates in quiet,
protected places, such as under a
desk downstairs or in a closet.
- She eliminates in an area where the
litter box was previously kept or
where there are urine odors.
- She eliminates on a different level of
the house from where the litter box is
located.
What You Can Do
- Put at least one litter box on every
level of your house.
- Make the area where she has been
eliminating aversive to her by
covering it with upside-down carpet
runner or aluminum foil, or by
placing citrus-scented cotton balls
over the area.
- Put a litter box in the location where
your cat has been eliminating. When
she has consistently used this box for
at least one month, you may gradually
move it to a more convenient location
at a rate of an inch per day.
Oops!
If you catch your cat in the act of
eliminating in the house, do something
to interrupt her like making a startling
noise, but be careful not to scare her.
Immediately take her to where the litter
box is located and set her on the floor. If
she wanders over to the litter box, wait
and praise her after she eliminates in the
box. If she takes off in another direction,
she may want privacy, so watch from
afar until she goes back to the litter box
and eliminates, then praise her when
she does.
Don’t ever punish your cat for eliminating
outside of the litter box. If you find a soiled
area, it’s too late to administer a correction.
Do nothing but clean it up. Rubbing your cat’s
nose in it, taking her to the spot and scolding
her, or any other type of punishment, will only
make her afraid of you or afraid to eliminate
in your presence. Animals don’t understand
punishment after the fact, even if it’s only
seconds later. Cats don’t seem to understand
it at all. Ultimately, punishment will do more
harm than good. Praise during elimination
in the proper place is helpful, however. Don’t
be loud because that will seem aggressive
and scary. Try not to use words with “s” or
“sh” sounds either because that sounds like
“hissing” to a cat. You should, however, use a
soothing, sweet sounding voice while telling
her she’s a good girl, “good potty”, whatever
you’d like.
Other Types of House-Soiling
Problems
- Marking/Spraying: Some pets
may go to the extreme of urinating
or defecating to mark a particular
area as their own. Urine marking is
not a house-soiling problem, but is
a territorial behavior. Therefore, to
resolve the problem, you need to
address the underlying reason for
your pet’s need to mark his territory
in this way.
- Fears or Phobias: When animals
become frightened, they may
lose control of their bladder
and/or bowels. If your cat is
afraid of loud noises, strangers
or other animals, she may
house soil when she is exposed
to these stimuli.
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